As our new SIM card from MTC Namibia doesn't work, we drive back to the airport to buy a new one. Then Africa catches us: it doesn't work because of a technical error that cannot be described in detail. Not only do we miss out on the luxury of a cheap phone connection, but MTC also misses two large planes from Europe and the Middle East with tourists willing to pay. No matter, it will work without it.

Then we are finally "on the road": We leave the tarmac road and drive south on the typical Namibian gravel roads. After a short period of getting used to the vehicle, which is huge by our standards, and driving on the left side of the road, we enjoy the landscape, which is increasingly dominated by the reddish sand of the Kalahari - and by kudus, which suddenly cross our path. We have a picnic lunch at an old tower, which may have been a defense system of the German Schutztruppe. We searched in vain for a description of the tower.

Our accommodation today, the Bagatelle Lodge, is in stark contrast to the Astra Farm. We find a complete tourist infrastructure, including a spa (okay, not up to European standards), a shop and guided excursions. We enjoy the afternoon by the pool and - without having booked an excursion - we are able to admire the white rhinos Gracy and Bruno over a sundowner as they pass directly by the lodge on their evening tour. Together with the manager of the lodge, we stand a few meters in front of the giants - without the wildlife expert we would have long since left.